AN autumnal evening on Saturday May 6 beneath heavily-laden persimmon trees in a Karragullen orchard was the romantic idea dreamt up by Perth Hills Future and the Hills Orchard Improvement Group committee. It was intended to not only celebrate the season of this little-known fruit, but also consolidate a shared vision for the future of the prolifically productive region.

Parking among the magnificent rows, guests of the Inaugural Perth Hills Persimmon Banquet were invited to step, boots and all, into the unique microclimate of the Canning Orchard.

I admit to not being quite sure about the persimmon. Is it a tomato? Is it a nectarine? Do you bite into it like an apple? Suffice to say, while certainly not claiming the expert status the Curtin research fellows seated next to me quite viably hold (three years and counting devoted to the fruit), I’m now well-versed in the eating possibilities of the crisp and firm Fuyu and the squishy sweet flavour of the Hachiya.

Vincenzo Velletri, Slow Food leader and chef of the evening, explored the possibilities quite thoroughly – his roaring wood-fired oven divulging delicious delights throughout the evening. A bruschetta starter in all shades of orange highlighted the crunchy tartness of the Chinese cultivar, with fruit sourced from Spring Hill Orchard. A savory sauce peppered with paprika was a welcome accompaniment to the pork and a sweet cinnamon infused puree, using cooked fruit from Karragullen Fruit Company, was the pièce de résistance for the pillowy panna cotta dessert. It wasn’t just the persimmon on display, though, with the produce from many West Australian producers well represented.

The banquet and wines were a wonderful lubricant for discussion. Lively discourse on food security, agritourism possibilities and export issues were well underway. Mingling with the Perth Hills advocates, growers and city-dwelling visitors, the Minister for Food and Agriculture, the Hon. Jackie Jarvis MLC, and Hon. Andrew Hastie MP (Member for Canning) made their commitments to preserving the heritage and cultivating the future of the Perth Hills clear.

In the current food climate of high imports and supermarket driven, high-volume food production, the evening was a tasty reminder to look more closely at the special offerings of our peri-urban regions. If this is a taste of the Perth Hills future, then I’m looking forward to finding out what’s next on the menu.